Wednesday
LOCATION: Krung Thep A.K.A. Bangkok
APPEARING: Chao Praya Relaxers
APPEARING: Chao Praya Relaxers
My last day in Southeast Asia involved visiting a Dengue Fever research team, and then spent doing the tourist thing, some of it old, some of it new. I make an effort to go to Wat Pho and see the Reclining Buddha every single time I go to Bangkok. I dislike the crowds, and I dislike the tourists (which is snobby, because I am a tourist when I visit the temple-- and after spending so much time in Thailand, I'm much more used to spending time away from tourists)... but the Reclining Buddha does not lose its splendor, no matter how many times I see it. On his side, the Reclining Buddha stretches over 150-feet. The building and workmanship is amazing, as are the 108 scenes depicted in mother-of-pearl on the Buddha's feet.
Next I hopped the express ferry (13-baht, about 30 cents; fastest, cheapest way to get around this mess of a city) down and across the river to the area near Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). This older part of Bangkok shocked me with it's small, beautiful streets, friendly shop owners, Chinese-style feel-- and quietness! I think my heart skipped a beat at the quiet, dare I say almost rural feel on a few streets. In Bangkok?
And then, Bangkok cranked up the charm. I sat, quietly taking notes and recounting thoughts as the sun set over the river. In a small park, the sky started to glow, and middle aged women congregated for a little of that favorite SEAsian past-time: nighttime, outdoor, communal aerobics to techno.
Over the few days leading up to this, I had been actively posting updates to Facebook, which I will reproduce here. My thought process was spinning wildly during the final week. Each trip is a unique mixture of place, time, and experiences. Each time unrepeatable:
NOV. 23, 7.14pm: Sitting at the Chiang Mai bus station, waiting for the overnighter to Krung Thep. Still full from gorging myself on the best food this city has to offer: the Burmese lady's street stall on Nimmanhamin, in the soi next to the 7-11 closer to T. Suthep. May she live forever and continue to make the world a better place with her complete wok-virtuosity.
NOV. 24, 5.44pm: Bangkok is as messy as ever; Going to the mall here is like stepping into Hunter S. Thompson's nightmare; maybe that's why I'm listening to Lady Gaga?; Among the millions of people here, are there folks I know... and if you're one of them, do you want to get a beer?
NOV. 25 , 1.07pm: Met with one of the world's top Dengue HF researchers in BKK, including a visit to the children's hospital and meeting a 10 year-old boy 36 hours into shock syndrome. The description of bleed-out made me dizzy. Incredible work they are doing here.
NOV. 25, 7.03pm: Did that just happen? Did a day on the Chao Phraya, and a waterside sunset, and a sundown session of watching middle-aged Thais dance aerobics to really loud electronic/j-pop/t-pop re-establish Bangkok's charm in my mind? Did I just fall for this ugly mess of a city? Did Krung Thep wink at me? I think so...
NOV. 25, 5.25am: Blazing at 80 MPH through the neon lit slums of Bangkok, while the streets are empty, and the taxi driver is acting like he's on yaa baa... at 3am on my way from Krung Thep to the NYC. I think the city winked at me again :)
Next I hopped the express ferry (13-baht, about 30 cents; fastest, cheapest way to get around this mess of a city) down and across the river to the area near Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). This older part of Bangkok shocked me with it's small, beautiful streets, friendly shop owners, Chinese-style feel-- and quietness! I think my heart skipped a beat at the quiet, dare I say almost rural feel on a few streets. In Bangkok?
And then, Bangkok cranked up the charm. I sat, quietly taking notes and recounting thoughts as the sun set over the river. In a small park, the sky started to glow, and middle aged women congregated for a little of that favorite SEAsian past-time: nighttime, outdoor, communal aerobics to techno.
Over the few days leading up to this, I had been actively posting updates to Facebook, which I will reproduce here. My thought process was spinning wildly during the final week. Each trip is a unique mixture of place, time, and experiences. Each time unrepeatable:
NOV. 23, 7.14pm: Sitting at the Chiang Mai bus station, waiting for the overnighter to Krung Thep. Still full from gorging myself on the best food this city has to offer: the Burmese lady's street stall on Nimmanhamin, in the soi next to the 7-11 closer to T. Suthep. May she live forever and continue to make the world a better place with her complete wok-virtuosity.
NOV. 24, 5.44pm: Bangkok is as messy as ever; Going to the mall here is like stepping into Hunter S. Thompson's nightmare; maybe that's why I'm listening to Lady Gaga?; Among the millions of people here, are there folks I know... and if you're one of them, do you want to get a beer?
NOV. 25 , 1.07pm: Met with one of the world's top Dengue HF researchers in BKK, including a visit to the children's hospital and meeting a 10 year-old boy 36 hours into shock syndrome. The description of bleed-out made me dizzy. Incredible work they are doing here.
NOV. 25, 7.03pm: Did that just happen? Did a day on the Chao Phraya, and a waterside sunset, and a sundown session of watching middle-aged Thais dance aerobics to really loud electronic/j-pop/t-pop re-establish Bangkok's charm in my mind? Did I just fall for this ugly mess of a city? Did Krung Thep wink at me? I think so...
NOV. 25, 5.25am: Blazing at 80 MPH through the neon lit slums of Bangkok, while the streets are empty, and the taxi driver is acting like he's on yaa baa... at 3am on my way from Krung Thep to the NYC. I think the city winked at me again :)
